HOLE-IN-THE-WALL, ABACO: A UNIQUE PERSPECTIVE (2) PRESENT & FUTURE
Following on from my post last month HOLE-IN-THE WALL: THE PAST, it’s time to take a closer look at the ‘Gap-in-the-Wall’ as it is today, viewed from the sea. I’ve called this a ‘unique perspective’, but I’m sure many people have taken photos of HITW from the sea. It just that apart from a few kayaking ones from before the collapse of the arch, I haven’t found them. So I took some, thanks to the BMMRO and their research RHIB.
The view above is taken from some way to the west of HITW, and I have marked the main features that will be shown in this post. As one approaches the promontory, the lighthouse and its outbuildings are the only sign of human intervention to be seen in the landscape. Historically there were small settlements in this remote place, and some traces of these remain.
Closing in on the former ‘Hole’, fresh damage from Hurricane Sandy’s destruction of the arch is still visible. It is more conspicuous on the other side.
In this photo, you can follow the features from the lighthouse to the foreshortened promontory, the new gap, the small islet that now exists, and finally a small eroded outcrop of rock – the remains of an extension of the mainland, and probably evidencing the southern tip of another arch that collapsed centuries ago.
Passing the outcrop and round to the east side of the promontory, further evidence of fresh damage can be seen, with the main shear being on the north side of the arch.
There’s a fine view of the lighthouse from the east
As we started the return journey to Sandy Point via groups of whales and dolphins, we went close to the outcrop, land’s end (next stop, Nassau). Even on a calm day, it is still thrashed by waves, as the second photo shows: no wonder it has eroded so quickly… See how it looked in the 1803 aquatint below, from which one can see how there must have once been an even larger ‘hole in the wall’ way back in history and long since collapsed even by then.
Then it was time to move on, having been fortunate enough to see the location from an entirely new angle
THE FUTURE
The geological future of the Hole-in the-Wall landscape is presumably that erosion and rising sea levels will sink the outcrop below the waves; the islet left after the collapse of the arch will similarly erode over the centuries, as in time will the whole promontory. Maybe as it gets thinner, another hole will be worn through by the waves. The restoration of the lighthouse, long promised, may perhaps take place. The nautical importance of the area suggests that the historic need for a light as both landmark and warning will continue. And who knows: even now, plans for wholesale redevelopment of the area could be on a drawing board somewhere…
WINSLOW HOMER
The header image is the well-known watercolour by Winslow Homer (1836 – 1910), the original of which is in the Brooklyn Museum. It was painted in 1885 and is entitled ‘Glass Windows’. This is commonly claimed to be the famous ‘Glass Window’ feature on Eleuthera. However my own theory is that it in fact depicts Hole-in-the-Wall, Abaco. There are a number of good reasons for this, but the most immediately striking is the title Homer himself gave to an engraving of the identical view, published in The Century magazine (Feb 1887). This engraving pre-dates, and was clearly the template for, the watercolour. The rock structure and even the cloud formations are identical. And the title “On Abaco Island” seems conclusive of the location.
Credits: All photos, RH; Winslow Homer painting, Brooklyn Museum online archive
Fascinating post, RH. Enjoyed the aquatint and paintings of old, and the speculations and discussion. I was so dazzled by the deep blue water, crashing waves, and gorgeous sky in all the photos — a very beautiful place in the world.
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This could and should be a prime tourist attraction on Abaco! Such a shame to see the buildings deteriorate as they have since I first visited in 1995 with my wife who interviewed the lighthouse keeper for an article in the Abaco Journal. It was automated soon thereafter, but I took the photo titled “Betsy and Keeper” which I still have.
The history of this area including the sisal plantation at Alexandria is fascinating. Remains of the old cottages and fences can still be seen at the west end of Soldier Road. It is also a prime area for birding as most of the Kirtland’s Warblers discovered on Abaco reside in this location. It’s a natural tourist attraction but Hole-in-the-Wall Road needs improvement and the buildings and lighthouse restored before it is too late. The view from the top of the lighthouse is incredible. This article and Winslow Homer’s drawing should inspire someone to undertake this project.
Elwood D. Bracey, MD
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